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ASTM D6193-16(2020)
Standard Practice for Stitches and Seams
Translate name
STANDARD published on 1.7.2020
The information about the standard:
Designation standards: ASTM D6193-16(2020)
Publication date standards: 1.7.2020
SKU: NS-1001395
The number of pages: 142
Approximate weight : 457 g (1.01 lbs)
Country: American technical standard
Category: Technical standards ASTM
The category - similar standards:
Annotation of standard text ASTM D6193-16(2020) :
Keywords:
ICS Number Code 61.020 (Clothes)
Additional information
| Significance and Use | ||
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4.1 Seam engineering, the determination of the best stitch type, seam configuration, and thread type which should be used for a particular assembly, requires a thorough knowledge of many variables. The improper selection of any one component can result in failure of the sewn junction, and ultimately failure of the product manufactured. 4.2 General Characteristics—The characteristics of a properly constructed sewn seam are strength, elasticity, durability, security, and appearance. These characteristics must be balanced with the properties of the material to be joined to form the optimum sewn seam. The end use of the item will govern the relative importance of these characteristics. The selection of the seam type and stitch type should be based upon these considerations. 4.2.1 Strength—The seam efficiency of the sewn seam should be as high as possible. This will produce sewn seam strength with a balanced construction that will withstand the forces encountered in the use of the sewn item. The elements affecting the strength of a sewn seam are: 4.2.1.1 Fabric type and strength, 4.2.1.2 Seam type, 4.2.1.3 Stitch type, 4.2.1.4 Stitch density (spi), 4.2.1.5 Thread tension, and 4.2.1.6 Thread strength. 4.2.2 Elasticity—The elasticity of a sewn seam should be slightly greater than that of the material which it joins. This will enable the material to support its share of the forces encountered for the intended end use of the sewn item. The elasticity of a sewn seam depends upon: 4.2.2.1 Fabric type and strength, 4.2.2.2 Seam type, 4.2.2.3 Stitch type, 4.2.2.4 Stitch density (spi), 4.2.2.5 Thread tension, and 4.2.2.6 Thread elasticity. 4.2.3 Durability—The durability of a sewn seam depends largely upon its strength relative to the elasticity of the seam and the elasticity of the material. However, in less elastic, tightly woven or dense materials, there is a tendency for the plies to “work” or slide on each other. To form a durable sewn seam in these types of fabrics, the thread size must be carefully chosen. The stitch density also needs to be carefully determined for the material so as not to cause excess tension which will unbalance the elasticity and cause puckering. It is also important to minimize abrasion and wear by contact with outside agencies to promote durability. 4.2.4 Security—The security of a sewn seam depends chiefly upon the stitch type, spi, and its susceptibility to become unraveled. The stitch must be well set to the material to prevent snagging that can cause rupture of the thread and unraveling of certain stitch types. 4.2.5 Appearance—The appearance of a sewn seam generally is governed by the proper relationship between the size and type of thread, the stitch density, and the texture and weight of the fabric. 4.2.5.1 In addition to these general characteristics, the technique and skill of the sewing machine operators also govern the appearance of the sewn seams. Some of the factors which will adversely affect the appearance are shown in Table 1. |
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| 1. Scope | ||
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1.1 This practice covers the requirements and characteristics of stitches and seams used in the fabrication of sewn items. 1.2 This practice identifies the category, formation, and general purpose for stitch types and seam types used in the fabrication of sewn items. 1.3 Subsequent to a general discussion of stitches and seams that include schematic indices, this practice is comprised of the following sections that are listed in the order in which they appear: 1.3.1 Section 5—Classification of Stitch Types for which drawings are shown in Stitch Figs. 1-69, FIG. 1 Stitch Type 101 Note 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with one needle
thread that shall be passed through the material and interlooped
with itself on the undersurface of the material.
FIG. 2 Stitch Type 102 Note 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with two needle
threads A and A′. Both threads shall
be passed through the material and thread A′ shall be interlooped with itself and with
thread A.
FIG. 3 Stitch Type 103 Note 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with one needle
thread, which shall interloop with itself on the top surface of the
material. The thread shall be passed through the top ply and
horizontally through portions of the bottom ply without penetrating
it the full depth.
FIG. 4 Stitch Type 104 Note 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with one needle
thread which shall interloop with itself on the undersurface of the
material.
FIG. 5 Stitch Type 105 Note 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with one needle
thread which shall be passed through the top ply of material and
through portions of the bottom ply without penetrating it the full
depth, on either side of a center line. The thread shall interloop
with itself on the surface of the material at the center
line.
FIG. 6 Stitch Type 201 Note 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with two needle
threads, A and A′, which shall be
passed through the material in the same perforations from opposite
directions without interlacing or interlooping.
FIG. 7 Stitch Type 202 Note 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with one needle
thread, which shall be passed through the material brought forward
two stitch lengths, passed back through the material and brought
back one stitch length before being passed through the material a
third time.
FIG. 8 Stitch Type 203 Note 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with one needle
thread, which shall be passed through the material from the
underside and immediately passed back through the same perforation
to form a loop on the surface of the material. The needle shall be
advanced one stitch length, passed through the material and the
loop and immediately passed back through the loop and the same
needle perforation, and a new loop shall be formed to receive the
succeeding stitch.
FIG. 9 Stitch Type 204 Note 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with one needle
thread, which shall be passed through the material and brought back
one stitch length and then passed back up through the material. The
needle shall be moved diagonally across the material and forward
one stitch length, passed through the material, brought back one
stitch length and again passed to the surface of the material. This
process shall be repeated to form a crisscross pattern of stitches
on the surface and parallel rows of separated and off-set stitches
on the underside of the material.
FIG. 10 Stitch Type 205 Note 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with one or more
needle threads and has for a general characteristic that the thread
does not interloop with itself or any other thread or threads. The
thread is passed completely through the material by means of a
double pointed center eye needle and returned by another path. This
class of stitch simulates hand stitching.
FIG. 11 Stitch Type 301 Note 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with two threads:
one needle thread, A, and one bobbin thread, B. A loop of thread A
shall be passed through the material and interlaced with thread B.
Thread A shall be pulled back so that the interlacing shall be
midway between surfaces of the material or materials being
sewn.
FIG. 12 Stitch Type 302 Note 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with three
threads: two needle threads, A and A′, and one bobbin thread, B. Loops of threads A
and A′ shall be passed through the
material and interlaced with thread B. The interlacings shall be on
the underside of the material.
FIG. 13 Stitch Type 303 Note 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with four threads:
three needle threads, A and A′ and
A″, and one bobbin thread, B. Loops of threads A, A′ and A″ shall be passed through the material and
interlaced with thread B. The interlacings shall be on the
underside of the material.
FIG. 14 Stitch Type 304 Note 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with two threads:
one needle thread, A, and one bobbin thread, B. This stitch type is
exactly the same as stitch type 301 except that successive single
stitches form a symmetrical zigzag pattern.
FIG. 15 Stitch Type 305 Note 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with three
threads: two needle threads, A and A′, and one bobbin thread, B. Loops of threads A
and A′ shall be passed through the
material and interlaced with thread B and the interlacing shall be
left on the underside of the material. Successive single stitches
form a symmetrical zigzag pattern.
FIG. 16 Stitch Type 306 Note 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with two threads:
one needle thread, A, and one bobbin thread, B. Loops of thread A
shall be passed through the top ply of material and horizontally
through portions of the bottom ply without penetrating it the full
depth and shall be interlaced with thread B on the top surface of
the bottom ply of material.
FIG. 17 Stitch Type 307 Note 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with five threads:
four needle threads, A, A′, A″,
A′″, and one bobbin thread, B. Loops
of threads A, A′, A″, A′″, shall be passed through the material and
interlaced with thread B. The interlacings shall be on the
underside of the material.
FIG. 18 Stitch Type 308 Note 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with two threads:
one needle thread, A, and one bobbin thread, B. This stitch type is
the same as stitch type 304 except that successive pairs of
stitches form a symmetrical zigzag pattern.
FIG. 19 Stitch Type 309 Note 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with three
threads: two needle threads, A and A′, and one bobbin thread, B. Loops of threads A
and A′ shall be passed through the
material and interlaced with thread B. The interlacings shall be
left on the underside of the material.
FIG. 20 Stitch Type 310 Note 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with three
threads: two needle threads, A and A′, and one bobbin thread, B. Loops of threads A
and A′ shall be passed through the
material and interlaced with thread B, and the interlacings shall
be left on the underside of the material. Successive single
stitches form a symmetrical zigzag pattern.
FIG. 21 Stitch Type 311 Note 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with three
threads: two needle threads, A and A′, and one bobbin thread, B. Loops of threads A
and A′ shall be passed through the
material and interlaced with thread B. Threads A and A′ shall be pulled back so that the interlacings
shall be midway between surfaces of the material or materials being
sewn.
FIG. 22 Stitch Type 312 Note 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with three
threads: two needle threads, A and A′, and one bobbin thread, B. This stitch type is
exactly the same as stitch type 311 except that successive single
stitches form a symmetrical zigzag pattern.
FIG. 23 Stitch Type 313 Note 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with two threads:
one needle thread, A, and one bobbin thread, B. Loops of thread A
shall be passed horizontally through portions of both plies of
material without penetrating the full depth, and shall be
interlaced with thread B on the top of the material.
FIG. 24 Stitch Type 314 Note 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with two threads:
one needle thread, A, and one bobbin thread, B. Loops of thread A
shall be passed through the top ply of material and horizontally
through portions of the bottom ply without penetrating the full
depth and shall be interlaced with thread B on the top of the
material.
FIG. 25 Stitch Type 315 Note 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with two threads:
one needle thread, A, and one bobbin thread, B. This stitch type is
the same as stitch type 304 except that successive groups of three
stitches form a symmetrical zig-zag pattern.
FIG. 26 Stitch Type 316 Note 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with one
continuous needle thread, which after the first needle penetration
is divided into two parts: part one, needle thread A, and one reel
thread, A′. In subsequent
penetrations thread A is passed through the material and interlaced
with thread A. Thread A shall be pulled up so that the interlacing
is midway between the surfaces of the material or materials being
sewn. This stitch type is identical to stitch type 301 except for
the initial stitch.
FIG. 27 Stitch Type 401 Note 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with two threads:
one needle thread, A, and one looper thread, B. Loops of thread A
shall be passed through the material and interlaced and interlooped
with loops of thread B. The interloopings shall be drawn against
the underside of the bottom ply of material.
FIG. 28 Stitch Type 402 Note 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with three
threads: two needle threads A and A′
and one looper thread, B. Loops of threads A and A′ shall be passed through the material and
interlaced and interlooped with loops of thread B. The
interloopings shall be drawn against the underside of the
material.
FIG. 29 Stitch Type 403 Note 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with four threads:
three needle threads, A, A′ and A″
and one looper thread, B. Loops of threads A, A′ and A″ shall be passed through the material and
interlaced and interlooped with loops of thread B. The
interloopings shall be drawn against the underside of the
material.
FIG. 30 Stitch Type 404 Note 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with two threads:
one needle thread, A, and one looper thread, B. This stitch is the
same as stitch type 401 except that successive single stitches form
a symmetrical zigzag pattern.
FIG. 31 Stitch Type 405 Note 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with three
threads: two needle threads, A and A′, and one looper thread, B. This stitch is the
same as stitch type 402 except that successive stitches form a
symmetrical zigzag pattern.
FIG. 32 Stitch Type 406 Note 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with three
threads: two needle threads, A and A′
and one looper thread, B. Loops of threads A and A′ shall be passed through the material and
interlaced and interlooped with loops of thread B. The
interloopings shall be drawn against the underside of the
material.
FIG. 33 Stitch Type 407 Note 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with four threads:
three needle threads A, A′, and A″
and one looper thread, B. Loops of threads A, A′, and A″ shall be passed through the material
and shall be drawn against the underside of the
material.
FIG. 34 Stitch Type 408 Note 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with five threads:
four needle threads A, A′, A″, and
A′ ″; and one looper thread, B. Loops
of threads A, A′, A″ , and
A′ ″ shall pass through the material
where they shall be interlooped with the loops of thread B on the
underside.
FIG. 35 Stitch Type 409 Note 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with two threads:
one needle threads A, and one looper thread, B. This stitch is the
same as stitch type 404, except that successive groups of three
stitches form a symmetrical chainstitch zig zag pattern.
FIG. 36 Stitch Type 410 Note 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with four threads:
two needle threads A, and A′, and two
looper threads, B and B′. This stitch
is the same as stitch type 409 , except two successive groups of
three stitches form a symmetrical chainstitch zig zag
pattern.
FIG. 37 Stitch Type 411 Note 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with six threads:
five needle threads A, A′, A″,
A′ ″; and A″ ″; one looper thread, B.
Loops of threads A, A′, A″,
A′ ″; and A″ ″ shall pass through the
material where they shall be interlooped with the loops of thread B
on the underside.
FIG. 38 Stitch Type 501 Note 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with one needle
thread which shall be passed through and around the edge of the
material as a loop and interlooped with itself at the point of
needle penetration of the stitch on the surface of the
material.
FIG. 39 Stitch Type 502 Note 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with two threads:
one needle thread, A, and one looper thread, B. Loops of thread A
shall be passed through the material and interlooped with thread B
at the point of penetration on the underside of the material. Loops
of thread B shall be brought around the edge of the material and
interlooped with thread A at the next stitch on the surface of the
material.
FIG. 40 Stitch Type 503 Note 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with two threads:
one needle thread, A, and one looper thread, B. Loops of thread A
shall be passed through the material and brought to the edge where
they shall be interlooped with thread B. The loops of thread B
shall be extended from this interlooping to the point of needle
penetration of the next stitch and there interlooped with thread
A.
FIG. 41 Stitch Type 504 Note 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with three
threads: one needle thread, A; one looper thread, B; and one cover
thread, C. Loops of thread A shall be passed through the material
and interlooped with loops of thread B at the point of penetration
on the underside of the material. The loops of thread B shall be
extended to the edge of the material and there interlooped with
loops of thread C. Loops of thread C shall be extended from this
interlooping to the point of needle penetration of the next stitch
and there interlooped with thread A.
FIG. 42 Stitch Type 505 Note 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with three
threads: one needle thread, A; one looper thread, B; and one cover
thread, C. Loops of thread A shall be passed through the material
and extended to the edge where they shall be interlooped with loops
of thread B. The loops of thread B shall be brought up to the top
edge of the material and there interlooped with loops of thread C.
The loops of thread C shall be extended to the point of needle
penetration of the next stitch and there interlooped with thread
A.
FIG. 43 Stitch Type 506 Note 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with four threads:
two needle threads, A and A′; one
looper thread, B; and one cover thread, C. Loops of threads A and
A′ shall be passed through the
material and the loops of thread A shall be extended to the point
of needle penetration of the loops of thread A′. Loops of threads A and A′ shall be interlooped with loops of thread B at
this point. The loops of thread B shall be brought around the edge
of the material and interlooped with loops of thread C. The loops
of thread C shall be extended to the point of needle penetration of
threads A and A′, where they shall be
entered by the next stitch of those threads.
FIG. 44 Stitch Type 507 Note 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with four threads:
two needle threads, A and A′; one
looper thread, B; and one cover thread, C. Loops of threads A and
A′ shall be passed through the
material and the loops of thread A shall be extended to the point
of needle penetration of the loops of thread A′. Loops of threads A and A′ shall be interlooped with loops of thread B at
this point. The loops of thread B shall be brought around the edge
and interlooped with loops of thread C. The loops of thread C shall
be extended to the point of needle penetration of thread
A′ at the next stitch where they
shall be entered by loops of that thread.
FIG. 45 Stitch Type 508 Note 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with three
threads: two needle threads, A and A′, and one looper thread, B. Loops of threads A
and A′ shall be passed through the
material where they shall be interlooped at the lower point of
penetration with thread B. Loops of thread B shall be brought
around the edge of the material and interlooped with thread
A′ at the next stitch on the surface
of the material.
FIG. 46 Stitch Type 509 Note 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with three
threads: two needle threads, A and A′, and one looper thread, B. Loops of threads A
and A′ shall be passed through the
material where they shall be interlooped at the lower point of
penetration with loops of thread B. Loops of thread B shall be
brought around and cast on the surface of the material where they
shall be entered by loops of threads A and A′.
FIG. 47 Stitch Type 510 Note 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with two needle
threads, A and A′, which shall be
passed through and around the edge to the surface of the material
as loops and interlooped with thread A′ at the point of needle penetration.
FIG. 48 Stitch Type 511 Note 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with two needle
threads, A and A′. Loops of threads A
and A′ shall be passed through the
material, brought around the edge and cast on the upper surface
where they shall be entered by loops of themselves at the point of
needle penetration of the next stitch.
FIG. 49 Stitch Type 512 Note 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with four threads:
two needle threads, A and A′; one
looper thread, B; and one cover thread, C. Loops of threads A and
A′ shall be passed through the
material where they shall be interlooped at the lower point of
penetration with thread B. The loops of thread B shall be brought
around the edge and interlooped with loops of thread C. The loops
of thread C shall be extended to the point of needle penetration of
thread A′ at the next stitch where
they shall be entered by loops of that thread.
FIG. 50 Stitch Type 513 Note 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with one needle
thread which shall be passed through the material as a loop and
brought to the edge, where it shall be passed through a loop formed
by the previous stitch and a loop which has been drawn across the
upper surface of the material.
FIG. 51 Stitch Type 514 Note 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with four threads:
two needle threads, A and A′; one
looper thread, B; and one cover thread, C. Loops of threads A and
A′ shall be passed through the
material where they shall be interlooped at the lower point of
penetration with lops of thread B. The loops of thread B shall be
brought around the edge of the material and interlooped with loops
of thread C. The loops of thread C shall be extended to the point
of needle penetration of threads A and A′ at the next stitch where they shall be entered
by loops of these threads.
FIG. 52 Stitch Type 515 Note 1: This type of stitch shall be formed by simultaneously
sewing one row of stitch 401 a specified distance from the edge of
the material, and one row of stitch type 503 on the edge of the
material.
FIG. 53 Stitch Type 516 Note 1: This type of stitch shall be formed by simultaneously
sewing one row of stitch type 401 a specified distance from the
edge of the material, and one row of stitch type 504 on the edge of
the material.
FIG. 54 Stitch Type 517 Note 1: This type of stitch shall be formed by simultaneously
sewing one row of stitch type 301 a specified distance from the
edge of the material, and one row of stitch type 504 on the edge of
the material.
FIG. 55 Stitch Type 518 Note 1: This type of stitch shall be formed by simultaneously
sewing one row of stitch type 301 a specified distance from the
edge, and one row of stitch type 503 on the edge of the
material.
FIG. 56 Stitch Type 519 Note 1: This type of stitch shall be formed by simultaneously
sewing one row of stitch type 401 a specified distance from the
edge of the material, and one row of stitch type 602 on the edge of
the material.
FIG. 57 Stitch Type 520 Note 1: This type of stitch shall be formed by simultaneously
sewing two rows of stitch type 401 a specified distance apart and a
specified distance from the edge of the material, and one row of
stitch type 602 on the edge of the material.
FIG. 58 Stitch Type 521 Note 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with three
threads: two needle threads, A and A′, and one looper thread, B. Loops of threads A
and A′ shall be passed through the
material, brought around the edge of the material and interlaced
there with thread B. The loops of thread B shall be extended from
this interlacing to the points of needle penetration of threads A
and A′ where they shall be entered by
the next stitch of those threads.
FIG. 59 Stitch Type 522 Note 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with four threads:
two needle threads, A and A1; one looper thread, B and
one looper thread C. Loops of thread A and A1 shall be
interlooped at the lower point of penetration with thread B. The
loops of thread A1 and B shall be brought around the
edge and interlooped with loops of thread C. The loops of thread C
shall be extended to the next stitch where they shall be entered by
loops of that thread.
FIG. 60 Stitch Type 601 Note 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with three
threads; two needle threads, A and A′, and one looper thread, B. Loops of threads A
and A′ shall be passed through the
material where they shall be interlooped with thread B on the
underside. Loops of thread A′ shall
be extended across the material to the point of needle penetration
of the next stitch of thread A where they shall be entered by a
loop of that thread as it enters the fabric to make the next
stitch.
FIG. 61 Stitch Type 602 Note 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with four threads:
two needle threads, A and A′; one
looper thread, B; and one cover thread, C. Loops of threads A and
A′ shall be passed through loops of
thread C already cast across the top surface of the material, and
then through the material where they shall be interlooped with
loops of thread B on the underside.
FIG. 62 Stitch Type 603 Note 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with five threads:
two needle threads, A and A′; one
looper thread, B; and two cover threads, C and C′. Loops of threads A and A′ shall be passed through loops of threads C and
C′ already cast across the surface of
the material and then through the material and interlooped with
loops of thread B on the underside of the material.
FIG. 63 Stitch Type 604 Note 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with six threads:
three needle threads, A, A′ and A″;
one looper thread, B; and two cover threads, C and C′. Loops of threads A, A′ and A″ shall be passed through loops of threads
C and C′ already cast across the
surface of the material, and then through the material where they
shall be interlooped with thread B on the underside.
FIG. 64 Stitch Type 605 Note 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with five threads:
three needle threads, A, A′, and A″;
one looper thread, B; and one cover thread, C. Loops of threads A,
A′, and A″ shall be passed through
loops of thread C already cast on the top surface of the material
and then through the material where they shall be interlooped with
loops of thread B on the underside.
FIG. 65 Stitch Type 606 Note 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with nine threads:
four needle threads, A, A′, and A″,
and A′″; four looper threads, B,
B′, B″, and B′″; and one cover thread, C. Loops of threads A,
A′, A″, and A′″ shall be passed through loops of thread C
already cast on the top surface of the material, and then through
the material where they shall be interlooped with loops of the B
threads on the underside as follows: A and A′ with B; A′ and A″
with B′ and B″; A″ and A′″ with B′″.
FIG. 66 Stitch Type 607 Note 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with six threads:
four needle threads, A, A′, A″, and
A′″; one looper thread, B; and one
cover thread, C. Loops of threads A, A′, A″, and A′″
shall be passed through loops of thread C already cast on the
surface of the material, and then through the material where they
shall be interlooped with loops of thread B on the
underside.
FIG. 67 Stitch Type 608 Note 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with five threads:
two needle threads, A and A′; two
looper threads, B and B ′; and one
cover thread, C. Loops of threads A and A′ shall be passed through loops of thread C cast
across the top surface of the material, and then through the
material where they shall be interlooped with loops of thread B and
B ′on the underside.
FIG. 68 Stitch Type 609 Note 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with seven
threads: three needle threads, A, A′,
and A″; three looper threads, B, B′,
and B″; and one cover thread, C. Loops of threads A, A′, and A″ shall pass through loops of thread C
cast on the top surface of the material and then through the
material where they shall be interlooped with loops of threads B,
B′, and B″ on the
underside.
FIG. 69 Stitch Type 610 Note 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with seven
threads: five needle threads, A, A′,
A′ ″, and A″ ″; one looper thread, B;
and one cover thread, C. Loops of threads A, A′, A′ ″, and A″ ″
shall be passed through loops of thread C cast on the surface of
the material, and then through the material where they shall be
interlooped with loops of thread B on the underside.
1.3.2 Section 6—Classification of Seam Types for which drawings are shown in Seam Figs. 70-288, and FIG. 70 Seam Type SSa Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by superimposing two
or more plies of material and seaming them with one or more rows of
stitches a specified distance from their edges.
FIG. 71 Seam Type SSb Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by superimposing two
plies of material, turning in the edge of one ply a specified
distance to the inside and seaming the plies with one or more rows
of stitches.
FIG. 72 Seam Type SSc Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by superimposing two
plies of material, turning the edges of both plies a specified
distance to the inside and seaming through the turned edges with
one or more rows of stitches a specified distance from the
edges.
FIG. 73 Seam Type SSd-1 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by superimposing two
plies of material, turning the edge of both plies a specified
distance outwardly and seaming with one or more rows of
stitches.
FIG. 74 Seam Type SSe Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing two plies of material and seaming with one row of stitches a specified distance from the edge, (seam type SSa-1), and (b) turning both plies of material at the first seaming to cover the raw edges and seaming with one or more rows of stitches through the folded edges. FIG. 75 Seam Type SSf-3 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing two plies of material and seaming with one row of stitches, a specified distance from the edge (Seam Type SSa-1), and (b) opening both plies of the material and seaming a reinforcing tape over the raw edges of the material with two rows of stitches a specified distance apart. FIG. 76 Seam Type SSh-2 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing two plies of material and seaming with one row of stitches, a specified distance from the edge (Seam Type SSa-1), and (b) opening the plies of material and sewing with a row of covering stitches over the trimmed edges. FIG. 77 Seam Type SSj-1 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by superimposing two
or more plies of material, inserting a plain narrow strip of
material between and seaming with one or more rows of stitches a
specified distance from the near edge.
FIG. 78 Seam Type SSk-1 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by inserting a
folded strip of material, with or without a cord as specified,
between two superimposed plies of material and seaming with one or
more rows of stitches.
FIG. 79 Seam Type SSl-1 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by superimposing one
ply of material on another a sufficient distance from the edge to
permit turning the edge of one ply of the material under and in, a
specified distance around the edge of the other ply, and seaming
with one row of stitches.
FIG. 80 Seam Type SSm-1 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by superimposing two
or more plies of material and seaming with one row of stitches in
such a manner that the thread passes only partially through the
thickness of the last or outer ply. The thread shall not show on
the outer side of the last ply unless otherwise
specified.
FIG. 81 Seam Type SSn-1 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by superimposing two
or more plies of material, folding both the edges back over the
body of material a specified distance and seaming with one row of
stitches.
FIG. 82 Seam Type SSp-1 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by superimposing two
or more plies of material, turning the edges back over the body of
material and in, under that fold a specified distance, and seaming
with one row of stitches.
FIG. 83 Seam Type SSq Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing three or more plies of material and seaming with one row of stitches a specified distance from the edge (seam type SSa-1), and (b) turning the two outer plies back over their edges and seaming with one or more rows of stitches. FIG. 84 Seam Type SSr-1 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by superimposing two
plies of material, turning the edge of one ply of material and
seaming through the turned edge and plies of material with one row
of stitches.
FIG. 85 Seam Type SSs Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by superimposing a
tape, webbing or narrow piece of fabric over the turned edge of a
ply or plies of material and seaming with one or more rows of
stitches through the turned edge.
FIG. 86 Seam Type SSt Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by superimposing a
ply or plies of material with the outer edge turned, on a tape,
webbing or narrow strip of fabric and seaming with two or more rows
of stitches, with only the row nearest the folded edge going
through the fold.
FIG. 87 Seam Type SSu Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by turning the edges
of two plies of material inwardly, inserting a tape or strip of
material within the inturned upper ply, and stitching with two or
more rows of stitches, with only the row nearest the folded edge
going through the folds.
FIG. 88 Seam Type SSv Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by superimposing and
seaming two or more plies of material with one or more rows of
stitches where evenly spaced lines of stitches are required in the
body of the materials, as in quilting comforters, clothing linings,
etc.
FIG. 89 Seam Type SSw-2 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing two pieces of material, turning the edge of one ply of material over the edge of the second ply, and seaming with one row of stitches, and (b) turning back the body of the upper ply over the folded lower ply and seaming with one row of stitches. FIG. 90 Seam Type SSx Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing and seaming three plies of material as in seam type SSa-1 with a single row of stitches a specified distance from the edges, and (b) turning back the edges of the middle and bottom plies and the body of the bottom ply over these turned edges, turning back the edge of the top ply and the body of the top ply and seaming through the body and the turned edge of the top ply, and the body of the bottom ply with one row of stitches. FIG. 91 Seam Type SSy-2 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing and seaming three plies of material in seam type SSa-1 with a single row of stitches a specified distance from the edge and (b) turning back the edges of the middle and bottom plies and the body of the bottom ply over these turned edges, turning back the edge of the top ply and the body of the top ply and seaming through the body of the middle ply, the turned edges of the middle and bottom ply and the body of the bottom ply. FIG. 92 Seam Type SSz-3 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing and seaming two plies of material in seam type SSa-1 and (b) opening the two plies and turning the edges of each ply back under the body of the ply and seaming through the turned edge of each ply with one row of stitches. FIG. 93 Seam Type SSa-1 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by superimposing a
strip on one ply of material and seaming with one or more rows of
stitches.
FIG. 94 Seam Type SSab-1 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by superimposing a
strip on two plies of material and seaming with one or more rows of
stitches.
FIG. 95 Seam Type ac-3 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing two plies of material and seaming with one row of stitches a specified distance from the edges in seam type SSa-1, and (b) turning one ply aside and seaming its edge to a strip with its edges turned in, (c) turning the other ply aside and seaming its edge to the strip, and (d) opening both plies of material to finish as shown. FIG. 96 Seam Type ad-3 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing two plies of material and seaming with one row of stitches a specified distance from the edges in seam type SSa-1, and (b) opening the two plies, turning the edge of each ply under the body, superimposing to a reinforcing strip and seaming through the body, turned edge, and reinforcement strip. FIG. 97 Seam Type SSae-3 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing two plies of material and seaming with a row of stitches a specified distance from the edges in seam type SSa-1 and (b) turning both plies of material over their edges and seaming with one or more rows of stitches. When more than one row of stitches are used, one row shall pass through the folded edges. FIG. 98 Seam Type SSaf-2 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing a welt strip on the body of a material which is superimposed on a stay piece and seaming with one row of stitches, and (b) opening the seam by turning the welt strip over on itself and under the body material and stay piece, the edges of which shall have been turned, and seaming through the first seam and welt strip. FIG. 99 Seam Type SSag-3 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed:
(a) superimposing two plies of material and seaming in seam type SSa-1, and (b) opening each ply and superimposing these over a reinforcing strip whose edges are turned in a specified distance, and seaming with two rows of stitches through the reinforcing strip. FIG. 100 Seam Type SSan Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by turning the edge
of one ply of material around a tape and superimposing this on
another ply with edge turned up and stitching with three or more
rows of stitches, two rows of which shall be through the turned
edges.
FIG. 101 Seam Type SSaj-3 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing two plies of material and seaming with a row of stitches a specified distance from the edge in seam type SSa-1, (b) turning both plies of material over their edges and seaming with one or more rows of stitches in seam type SSae-2, and (c) turning the top ply back over the seam and seaming with one row of stitches a specified distance from the second row of stitches. FIG. 102 Seam Type SSak-1 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by superimposing a
strip on the fold of a body material a specified distance from the
folded edge and seaming with one or more rows of
stitches.
FIG. 103 Seam Type al-2 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing a strip on one ply of material and seaming with one or more rows of stitches, and (b) folding the edge of the body ply and the strip over the body material and seaming through the strip and body material with one or more rows of stitches. FIG. 104 Seam Type am-2 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing and seaming two plies of material in seam type SSa-1, and (b) opening the two plies and turning the edges of each ply back under the body of the ply; turning the body ply back under these turned edges and seaming through the first seam with one row of stitches. FIG. 105 Seam Type SSo-2 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing and seaming two plies of material in seam type SSa-1, and (b) opening the two plies and turning the edges of each ply back under the body of the ply; turning the body of one ply over these turned edges and seaming through the body and turned edge of the top ply and the body of the bottom ply with one row of stitches. Note 2: SSap is the same as SSao except (b) is further
top-stitched through the body and turned edge of top ply with two
row of stitches. Second row of stitches is to the right side of
SSa-1 seam. No Seam Figure required.
FIG. 106 Seam Type SSaq-2 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing two or more plies of material, folding both the edges back over the body of material a specified distance and seaming with one row of stitches, and (b) opening the plies of material, turning the seam to one side and seaming with one or more rows of stitches. FIG. 107 Seam Type SSar-3 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing two plies of material and seaming with one row of stitches a specified distance from their edges in seam type SSa-1, (b) turning one ply aside and seaming its edge to a folded strip with its edges turned in, (c) turning the other ply aside and seaming its edge to the folded edge of the strip, and (d) opening both plies of material to finish as shown. FIG. 108 Seam Type SSas-4 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) turning the edges of a strip of material and seaming with two rows of stitches, and (b) superimposing the stitched strip with the turned edges downward on a body material and seaming with two rows of stitches. FIG. 109 Seam Type SSat-2 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by superimposing a
strip with its edges turned under on a body material, and seaming
the strip to the body material with two or more rows of
stitches.
FIG. 110 Seam Type SSau-2 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by superimposing a
strip on a body material and seaming with two or more rows of
stitches.
FIG. 111 Seam Type SSav-2 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing a folded strip of material, with or without a cord as specified, over a ply of material and seaming with one row of stitches, and (b) superimposing another ply of material and seaming with one row of stitches. FIG. 112 Seam Type SSaw-2 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) inserting a folded strip of material, with or without a cord as specified, between two superimposed plies of material and seaming with one row of stitches, and (b) turning the top ply back sharply over the first row of stitches and seaming with one or more rows of stitches. FIG. 113 Seam Type SSax-2 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) inserting a folded strip of material, with or without a cord as specified, between two superimposed plies of material and seaming with one row of stitches, and (b) turning both plies of material at the first seaming to cover the raw edges and seaming with one or more rows of stitches through the folded edges. FIG. 114 Seam Type SSay-2 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing a strip on a ply of body material and seaming with one row of stitches in seam type SSa-1, and (b) turning the strip over the row of stitches, around the edge of the body material and seaming with a second row of stitches. FIG. 115 Seam Type SSaz-1 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) folding a piece of body material with the face inside, placing the raw edges on a second ply, and seaming with one row of stitches a specified distance from the raw edge, and (b) turning the body material face out to envelop the second ply. FIG. 116 Seam Type SSba-3 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) turning the edges of each of two plies of material and stitching the turned portion to the body of the material with one row of stitches, (b) superimposing the two plies and seaming a specified distance from the turned edges with one row of stitches, and (c) opening the two plies and turning the edge of each ply under the body to finish as shown. FIG. 117 Seam Type SSbb-3 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing two plies of material and seaming with a row of stitches a specified distance from the edges in seam type SSa-1, and (b) turning both plies of material over their edges, superimposing a strip and seaming with two or more rows of stitches. FIG. 118 Seam Type SSbc-1 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by superimposing two
pieces of material, turning the edge of one ply of material over
the edge of the second ply, and seaming with one or more rows of
stitches.
FIG. 119 Seam Type SSbd-1 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by superimposing two
plies of material with their edges a specified distance apart and
seaming with one or more rows of stitches a specified distance from
the edge of the top ply.
FIG. 120 Seam Type SSbe-2 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing two plies of material, or a strip on a body material, and seaming with one row of stitches a specified distance from the edges in seam type SSa-1, and (b) turning one of the plies at the first seaming and folding the other ply a specified distance from the first seaming, and seaming with a row of stitches through all plies. FIG. 121 Seam Type SSbf-3 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) folding a strip of material, with or without a cord as specified, and stitching a specified distance from the edge with one row of stitches, (b) inserting the folded and stitched strip of material between two superimposed plies of material and seaming with one row of stitches, and (c) turning the top ply back sharply over the first row of stitches and seaming with one or more rows of stitches. FIG. 122 Seam Type SSbg-3 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) folding a strip of material, with or without a cord as specified, and stitching a specified distance from the edge with one row of stitches, (b) inserting the folded and stitched strip of material between two superimposed plies of material and seaming with one row of stitches, and (c) turning both plies of material at the seam to cover the raw edges and seaming with one or more rows of stitches through the folded edges. FIG. 123 Seam Type SSbh-3 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) binding the edges of two plies of body material by turning one edge of a binding strip, folding it over the edge of the body material, and seaming the binding strip and body material with one row of stitches, (b) superimposing the two plies and seaming a specified distance from the bound edges with one row of stitches, and (c) opening the two plies and turning the bound edge of each ply under the body to finish as shown. FIG. 124 Seam Type LSa Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by overlapping two
or more plies of material a specified distance and seaming with one
or more rows of stitches.
FIG. 125 Seam Type LSb Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by folding under the
edge of one ply of the material overlapping it at the edge of
another ply and seaming with one or more rows of
stitches.
FIG. 126 Seam Type LSc Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by folding in and
interlapping the edges of two plies of material so that the edges
of the material are concealed and seaming with one or more rows of
stitches.
FIG. 127 Seam Type LSd Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by folding under the
edge of one ply of material, lapping it on the body of another ply
of material a specified distance from the edge, and seaming with
one or more rows of stitches.
FIG. 128 Seam Type LSe Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by folding the edges
of each of two plies of material, inserting a third ply of material
between the folded edges and seaming all plies with one or more
rows of stitches.
FIG. 129 Seam Type LSf Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) folding the edge of one ply of material, lapping it on two or more other plies and seaming with one or more rows of stitches. When more than one row of stitches are used, the inner ply shall be extended so that the second row of stitches does not go through the bottom ply, and (b) the bottom ply then shall be turned back to lie under the top ply (figure b). FIG. 130 Seam Type LSg Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by folding in both
edges of two plies of material, inserting a third ply of material
between the folded edges on one side and seaming each side with one
or more rows of stitches.
FIG. 131 Seam Type LSj Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by folding both
edges of two plies of material, inserting a strip in the fold of
the top ply, inserting the body material between the folded edges
of both plies on one side and seaming with two or more rows of
stitches.
FIG. 132 Seam Type LSk Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by folding both
edges of a strip of material and lapping it on the body material
whose edge has been folded in, and seaming with two or more rows of
stitches.
FIG. 133 Seam Type LSl Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by folding the edge
of a body material, folding both edges of a strip of material,
inserting one or more plies of material between the inturned edges
of the body material and the strip, and seaming with two or more
rows of stitches.
FIG. 134 Seam Type LSm Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by folding the edges
of a ply of material over a strip, and lapping these two materials
over a body material, whose edge has been folded in, and seaming
with two or more rows of stitches.
FIG. 135 Seam Type LSn-1 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by double folding
the edge of a body material as for a hem (EFb) inserting a folded
strip of material between the folded edge and the body of the body
material and seaming with one or more rows of stitches.
FIG. 136 Seam Type LSp Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by overlapping a
strip of material over the abutted edges of two or more pieces of
material and seaming with two or four rows of stitches.
FIG. 137 Seam Type LSq Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing two plies of material and seaming as in seam type SSa-1, and (b) the top ply shall then be turned back sharply over the first row of stitching and seamed with one or more rows of stitches. FIG. 138 Seam Type LSr-2 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) overlapping two plies of material with their edges a specified distance apart and seaming with one row of stitches a specified distance from the edge of the top ply, and (b) turning the top ply over the first row of stitching, folding in the edge of the bottom ply and seaming with a second row of stitches through top ply and turned edge of bottom ply. FIG. 139 Seam Type LSs-2 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) overlapping two plies of material with their edges a specified distance apart and seaming with one row of stitches a specified distance from the edge of the top ply, and (b) turning the top ply at the first seam and seaming with a second row of stitches through the bodies of top and bottom plies. FIG. 140 Seam Type LST-2 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by folding the edge
of one ply of material and lapping it over a second ply, folding a
binding strip over the edge of both plies, and seaming with two
rows of stitches, only one of which shall secure the binding
strip.
FIG. 141 Seam Type LSu-2 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by turning the edges
of one ply of material and lapping it over a second ply, folding a
binding strip with both edges folded in over the edge of both plies
of material and seaming with two rows of stitches, only one of
which shall secure the binding strip.
FIG. 142 Seam Type LSv-2 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by double folding
the edge of the body material, lapping it over a strip of material
so that one edge of the strip is between the body material and its
folded edge, folding the opposite edge of the strip, and seaming
the strip to the body of the material with two rows of
stitches.
FIG. 143 Seam Type LSw-4 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by double folding
each edge of a wide strip of material over a narrow strip, and
lapping it over the folded edge of a body material and seaming with
four rows of stitches.
FIG. 144 Seam Type LSx Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing two plies of material, folding a binding strip over the edges of the plies, and seaming the plies and binding strip with one row of stitches, and (b) turning over the top ply a specified distance from the first row of stitches and seaming with one or more rows of stitches. FIG. 145 Seam Type LSy Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing two plies of material, folding the edges of a binding strip, placing it over the edges of the material and seaming with one row of stitches, and (b) turning the top ply a specified distance from the first row of stitches and seaming with one or more rows of stitches. FIG. 146 Seam Type LSz Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by overlapping the
edges of two or more plies of material, lapping a strip of material
with the edges folded in over the overlapped edges and seaming with
three or more rows of stitches.
FIG. 147 Seam Type LSaa-3 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by overlapping the
edges of two or more plies of material, superimposing a strip of
material over the overlapping edges and seaming w rows of
stitches.
FIG. 148 Seam Type LSab Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by folding the edges
of a strip of material, lapping it on a second ply and lapping both
of these over a third ply substantially different in width with its
edges folded, and seaming with three or more rows of stitches as
follows: One row shall join the strips on the outer edges; a second
row of stitches shall join the top strip, the middle ply and the
bottom ply through the turned edge, and the remaining row or rows
shall join the top strip to the middle ply.
FIG. 149 Seam Type LSac-2 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by lapping a ply of
body material over a narrow strip, one edge of which shall be
folded in under the top ply, placing a binding strip over the other
edges of the strip and body material and seaming with two or more
rows of stitches.
FIG. 150 Seam Type LSad-2 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by lapping a ply of
body material over a narrow strip, one edge of which is folded in
under the body of the first ply, placing a binding strip with both
edges folded in over the other edges of the strip and body material
and seaming with two or more rows of stitches.
FIG. 151 Seam Type LSae-1 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by lapping one ply
of material on to a second ply, folding the top ply back and
seaming through the folded portion to the second ply with one or
more rows of stitches. Note: the drawing illustrates the basic seam
and two repeats.
FIG. 152 Seam Type LSaf-2 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by lapping one ply
of material over a second ply, turning the edge of the first ply
around the edge of the second ply and seaming with two or more rows
of stitches.
FIG. 153 Seam Type LSag-2 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by lapping one ply
of material over a second ply, folding one edge of each ply to the
inside, and seaming with two or more rows of stitches.
FIG. 154 Seam Type LSah-1 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by lapping the
folded edge of one ply of material over a second ply, inserting a
strip between and seaming all plies with one or more rows of
stitches.
FIG. 155 Seam Type LSaj-1 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by lapping the
folded edge of one ply of material over a second ply, inserting a
folded strip between the two plies, and seaming all plies with one
or more rows of stitches.
FIG. 156 Seam Type LSak-2 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing two plies of material and seaming with one row of stitches, seam type SSa-1, and (b) turning the bottom ply over the first row of stitches and seaming with one or more rows of stitches. FIG. 157 Seam Type LSa1 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by folding one ply
of material into an “S” fold at a specified distance from the edge,
folding in the edge and lapping it over a strip of material with
the edges folded in and seaming with two or more rows of
stitches.
FIG. 158 Seam Type LSam Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by folding one ply
of material into an “S” fold, folding in the outer edge, inserting
an interlining strip in the folds, and lapping these over another
ply whose edges shall be folded in, and seaming with two or more
rows of stitches.
FIG. 159 Seam Type LSan Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by folding one ply
of material into an “S” fold, turning in and folding over the outer
edge, inserting an interlining strip, and seaming with two rows of
stitches.
FIG. 160 Seam Type LSap-1 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by folding one ply
of material over on itself, lapping it on another folded ply,
folding the edges of the bottom ply over the folded edge of the top
ply and seaming with one or more rows of stitches through all plies
of material at the folded in edges.
FIG. 161 Seam Type LSaq-1 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by folding one ply
of material over on itself, folding the edge in, lapping it on
another folded ply whose edge shall be folded in between the body
of the first ply and its folded edge, and seaming with one or more
rows of stitches through all plies at the folded in
edges.
FIG. 162 LSar Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by folding the edges
of two strips of material, lapping one on the other, inserting two
or more pieces of material between them at the folded edges, and
seaming with two or more rows of stitches through the folded edges
and inserted material.
FIG. 163 Seam Type LSas-2 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by folding the edges
of two plies of material, lapping the folded edges over each other,
and seaming with two or more rows of stitches.
FIG. 164 Seam Type LSat-2 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by lapping two plies
of material with edges folded in, placing a strip of material on
the top ply over each turned edge, and seaming with one row of
stitches through each strip and all three plies of
material.
FIG. 165 Seam Type LSau Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by folding and
interlapping the edges of two plies of material so that their edges
are concealed, placing a strip of material on the top ply over the
folded edges and seaming with two or more rows of
stitches.
FIG. 166 Seam Type LSav-4 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by lapping two plies
of material, folding in the edges of both plies, placing a strip on
the top ply, and stitching with four rows of stitches, two rows
through the strip and the remaining two through the folded edges of
the material.
FIG. 167 Seam Type LSaw-3 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) lapping one ply of material over another a specified distance from the edge, folding the edge of the bottom ply and seaming with two rows of stitches, one through the edge of the top ply and body of the second ply and one through the folded edge of the bottom ply, and (b) turning the top ply over at the row of stitches and seaming with one row of stitches through the body of the top ply and turned edge of the bottom ply. FIG. 168 Seam Type LSax-4 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing two plies of material and seaming with one row of stitches a specified distance from the edge in seam type SSa-1, and (b) turning the top ply at the first row of stitches, superimposing on a third ply with edges folded and seaming with three rows of stitches. FIG. 169 Seam Type LSay-4 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by folding the edges
of a strip of material and lapping it on the body material whose
edge has been folded in, inserting a strip between the folded edges
of the body material and the strip, and seaming with four rows of
stitches.
FIG. 170 Seam Type LSaz-4 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) overlapping two plies of material and seaming with two rows of stitches in seam type LSa-2, and (b) placing a strip or tape over the first seam and seaming with two rows of stitches beyond each of the overlapped edges of the material. FIG. 171 Seam Type LSba-2 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by folding the edge
of a ply of material and lapping it on another ply, and seaming
with two rows of stitches. Only one row of the stitches shall pass
through the turned under edge.
FIG. 172 Seam Type LSbb-4 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) lapping to plies of material, folding both edges in and seaming with two rows of stitches as in seam type LSc-2, and (b) placing a strip or tape over the first seam and seaming it to the body material with a row of stitches on each side of the seam. FIG. 173 Seam Type LSbc Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by folding in both
edges of two plies of material, lapping one on the other, inserting
a third ply of material between them and seaming with two or more
rows of stitches.
FIG. 174 Seam Type LSbd-2 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by superimposing two
plies of material and seaming with one row of stitches in seam type
SSa-1; opening the two plies, and turning the edges of each ply
back under the body of the ply; overlapping the seam onto two plies
of material, the edge of one ply which has been turned up over the
edge of the other ply, and seaming through all plies with one row
of stitches on the side of the seam nearest the folded edge of the
bottom ply.
FIG. 175 Seam Type LSbe-2 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by superimposing two
plies of material and seaming with one row of stitches in seam type
SSa-1; opening the two plies and turning the edges of each ply back
under the body of the ply; overlapping the seam onto two plies of
material, the edge of one ply which has been turned up over the
other ply, and seaming through all plies with one row of stitches
on the side of the seam furthest from the folded edge of the bottom
ply.
FIG. 176 Seam Type LSbf Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by turning both
edges of a strip, folding it over the edge of a ply of material,
the lower ply not extending as deep as the upper ply and seaming
with two or more rows of stitches.
FIG. 177 Seam Type LSbg-1 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) turning the edge of one ply of material in a reverse “S” fold, inserting a second ply in the fold nearer the edge, seaming with one row of stitches, and (b) turning the upper ply back to form the finished seam. FIG. 178 Seam Type LSbh Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by turning both
edges of a strip and folding it over the ply or plies of body
material. A tape shall be inserted between one folded edge of the
binding strip and the body material and seamed with one or more
rows of stitches.
FIG. 179 Seam Type LSbj-1 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by lapping a ply of
material on a body material and seaming with one or more rows of
stitches.
FIG. 180 Seam Type LSbk-2 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) lapping a ply of material on a body material and seaming with one row of stitches, and (b) turning the top ply back sharply over the first row of stitches and seaming with one or more rows of stitches. FIG. 181 Seam Type LSbl-2 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) lapping a ply of material on a body material and seaming with one or more rows of stitches, and (b) turning the top ply back sharply over the first row of stitching and seaming with a second row of stitches through the top and bottom plies. FIG. 182 Seam Type LSbm Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing two plies of material and seaming in seam type SSa-2, with one row of seaming stitches and one row of overedge stitches, and (b) turning the top ply back sharply over the seaming row of stitches and seaming with one or more rows of stitches. FIG. 183 Seam Type LSbn-2 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing a strip on two plies of material and seaming with a single row of stitches a specified distance from the edge in seam type SSa-1, and (b) turning the bottom ply and the strip over the first row of stitches, turning in the edge of the strip and seaming the turned edge to the bottom ply with one row of stitches. FIG. 184 Seam Type LSbo-3 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) turning the edge of a ply of material and stitching the turned portion to the body of the material with one row of stitches, and (b) folding the edge of another ply of material, lapping it on the first ply, and seaming with two rows of stitches. FIG. 185 Seam Type LSbp-2 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing three or more plies of material and seaming with one row of stitches a specified distance from the edge in seam type SSa-1, (b) turning the top ply back over the row of stitches and seaming with one or more rows of stitches, and (c) turning the bottom ply back to show the finished seam. FIG. 186 Seam Type LSbq-2 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) turning the edge of a ply of material and stitching the turned portion to the body of the material with one row of stitches, (b) superimposing this ply on a second ply of material, folding under the edge of a third ply and lapping it over the turned and stitched edge and seaming with one row of stitches through the folded edge of the third ply and the two other plies of material, and (c) turning the bottom ply back to lie under the top ply to show the finished seam. FIG. 187 Seam Type LSbr-3 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing a strip on a ply of material and seaming with a row of stitches a specified distance from the edge in seam type SSa-1, (b) superimposing the seam thus formed on another ply of material and seaming with one row of stitches between the first row of stitches and the edge of the plies, and (c) turning the bottom ply and the strip over the two rows of stitches, turning in the edge of the strip and seaming the turned edge to the bottom ply with one row of stitches. FIG. 188 Seam Type LSbs-1 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by folding under the
edge of one ply of material, lapping it on the body of another ply
of material, superimposing a tape along the folded edge of the
first ply, and seaming with one or more rows of
stitches.
FIG. 189 Seam Type LSbt-2 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) folding under the edge of one ply of material, lapping it on the body of another ply of material and seaming with one row of stitches, and (b) superimposing a tape along the folded edge of the first ply and seaming with one or more rows of stitches a specified distance from the edge. FIG. 190 Seam Type LSbu Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing a strip on a body material and seaming a specified distance from the edge in seam type SSa-1, and (b) folding the body material a specified distance from the edge of the strip and seaming the folded edge through the strip with one or more rows of stitches. FIG. 191 Seam Type LSbv-3 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing a strip on a folded ply of material and seaming with one row of stitches, (b) folding the edge of a body material and superimposing on the seam formed in (a) and seaming through the folded edge of the body material, and (c) turning the body material over the seamed edges with the fold a specified distance from the edge of the extending strip and seaming a specified distance from the folded edge with one row of stitches. FIG. 192 Seam Type LSbw-3 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing a binding strip on a reinforcing piece and two or more plies of body material and seaming with one row of stitches, (b) turning the binding strip over the row of stitches and around the edges of the material, turning the bottom ply outward and stitching through all plies with one row of stitches, and (c) seaming the opposite edge of the reinforcing strip to the body material with one row of stitches. FIG. 193 Seam Type LSbx-3 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) turning the edge of one ply of material and stitching the turned portion to the body material a specified distance from the edge as in stitching type EFa-1, (b) superimposing the folded edge on another ply of material and seaming through all plies with a row of stitches a specified distance from the folded edge, and (c) lapping the superimposed plies on one or more plies and seaming through all plies with a row of stitches a specified distance from the folded edge of top ply. FIG. 194 Seam Type LSby-2 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing two plies of material and seaming in seam type SSa-1, and (b) turning the top ply sharply back over the first row of stitches with the bottom ply folded a specified distance, and seaming with one or more rows of stitches through the folded portion of the bottom ply. FIG. 195 Seam Type LSbz-3 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) folding the edge of a body material a specified distance and seaming with one row of stitches, (b) lapping a second ply of material over the folded and seamed ply and seaming with one row of stitches, and (c) turning the second ply sharply at the second row of stitches and seaming with one or more rows of stitches. FIG. 196 Seam Type LSca-2 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing a strip on the folded edge of a body material and seaming with one row of stitches a specified distance from the folded edge, and (b) turning the strip back sharply over the first row of stitches and seaming with one or more rows of stitches. FIG. 197 Seam Type LScb-2 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing three plies of material and seaming in seam type SSa-1, and (b) Turning the top ply back over the row of stitches and folding the two bottom plies a specified distance; superimposing this on one or more plies of body material and seaming with one or more rows of stitches. FIG. 198 Seam Type LScc-2 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing two plies of material and seaming in seam type SSa-1, and (b) turning both plies of material over their edges, lapping the two plies over a body material and seaming with one or more rows of stitches. FIG. 199 Seam Type LScd-3 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing two or more plies of material, folding both edges back over the body material a specified distance and seaming with one or more rows of stitches, (b) lapping two plies of material even with the folded edges and seaming with one row of stitches, and (c) turning the two plies back over the second row of stitches and seaming through all plies with one row of stitches. FIG. 200 Seam Type LSce-2 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) folding the edge of one ply of material and seaming with one row of stitches a specified distance from the edge, and (b) lapping the ply on the body of another ply of material and seaming with one or more rows of stitches. FIG. 201 Seam Type LScf-2 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing and seaming two plies of material in seam type SSa-1, and (b) turning the bottom ply at the row of stitches, superimposing a third ply with edge folded and seaming with one or more rows of stitches. FIG. 202 Seam Type LScg-2 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing and seaming two plies of material in seam type SSa-1, and (b) turning the bottom ply at the row of stitches, superimposing a third ply with edge folded and seaming to the top ply with one row of stitches through the folded edge. FIG. 203 Seam Type LSch-2 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing and seaming two plies of material in seam type SSa-1, and (b) turning the bottom ply at the row of stitches, superimposing a third ply and seaming with one row of stitches through the third ply and top ply. FIG. 204 Seam Type LScj-3 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing two plies of material and seaming in seam type SSa-1, and (b) turning the bottom ply at the row of stitches and folding in the raw edge; superimposing a strip with one edge folded and seaming with two rows of stitches; one row through the folded edges and one row through the strip and the body material. FIG. 205 Seam Type LSck-3 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing two plies of material and seaming in seam type SSa-1, and (b) turning the bottom ply at the row of stitches and folding in the raw edge; superimposing a strip with one edge folded and seaming with two or more rows of stitches. FIG. 206 Seam Type LScl-3 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing two plies of material and seaming in seam type SSa-1, and (b) turning the bottom ply at the row of stitches, folding in the raw edge; folding in both edges of another ply of material, lapping it on the turned and folded ply and seaming with two or more rows of stitches. FIG. 207 Seam Type LScm-3 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) placing two strips on either side of a body material and seaming with one row of stitches, and (b) turning the strips back over the sewn edges, folding in the raw edges of the strips and seaming each side with one row of stitches. FIG. 208 Seam Type LScn-3 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing two plies of material and seaming in seam type SSa-1, and (b) turning the bottom ply at the row of stitches, folding in the raw edges; folding in both edges of another ply of material, lapping it on the turned and folded ply and seaming with two or more rows of stitches, one row of which shall be through the body ply. FIG. 209 Seam Type LSco-4 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing two strips and seaming with one row of stitches in seam type SSa-1, (b) seaming the edge of one of the strips to a body material, and (c) turning the strips to cover the raw edges, folding in the raw edge of the top strip and seaming with two or more rows of stitches. FIG. 210 Seam Type LScp-4 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing two strips and seaming with one row of stitches in seam type SSa-1, (b) seaming the edge of one of the strips to a body material, and (c) turning the strips to cover the raw edges, folding in the raw edge of the top strip and seaming through the body material. The outer edge shall be seamed with one row of stitches. FIG. 211 Seam Type LScq-4 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing two strips and seaming with one row of stitches in seam type SSa-1, (b) seaming the edge of one of the strips to a body material, and (c) turning the strip to cover the raw edges and seaming with two or more rows of stitches. FIG. 212 Seam Type LScr-4 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing two strips and seaming with one row of stitches in seam type SSa-1, (b) seaming the edge of one of the strips to a body material, and (c) turning the strips to cover the raw edges, and seaming the unturned edge through the body material. The outer edge shall be seamed with one row of stitches. FIG. 213 Seam Type LScs-2 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing two plies of material and seaming in seam type SSa-1, and (b) opening the plies of fabric, turning the seam allowance to one side with the raw edges turned under, and seaming with one or more rows of stitches. FIG. 214 Seam Type LSct-2 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing a strip on a body material and seaming with one row of stitches in seam type SSa-1, and (b) turning both plies over their edges, turning under the opposite edge of the strip and seaming with one or more rows of stitches. FIG. 215 Seam Type LScu-2 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) overlapping two plies of material and seaming with a row of stitches a specified distance from the edges, and (b) turning the top ply over the first row of stitching and seaming with a row of stitches through the body material. FIG. 216 Seam Type LScv-3 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing and seaming two plies of material in seam type SSa-1, and (b) opening the two plies, turning the edge of each ply under the body, superimposing on a third ply of material and seaming with two rows of stitches. FIG. 217 Seam Type LScv-3 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) folding a piece of material and seaming a specified distance from the edge, and (b) turning the material inside out with the seam opened and centered, and seaming to a body material with two rows of stitches. FIG. 218 Seam Type LScx-3 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) folding a piece of material and seaming a specified distance from the edge, and (b) turning the material inside out with the mean to one side and seaming to a body material with two rows of stitches. FIG. 219 Seam Type LScy-3 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing two plies of material in seam type SSa-1, and (b) turning the top ply back sharply over the first row of stitches, superimposing a strip and seaming with two or more rows of stitches through all plies. FIG. 220 Seam Type LScz-2 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) folding under the edge of one ply of material; lapping it on two plies of body material and seaming with one row of stitches, and (b) folding the edge of the first ply around the edges of the body plies; superimposing this on the edge of two additional plies of material, and seaming through all plies with one row of stitches. FIG. 221 Seam Type LSda-2 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by turning the edge
of one ply of material in an “S” fold, superimposing it on another
ply with the edges even; turning both edges of a strip and folding
it over the plies of body materials, and seaming with two rows of
stitches.
FIG. 222 Seam Type LSdb-2 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing a strip on a body material and seaming in seam type SSa-1, and (b) turning the strip around the edge of the body material; turning under the raw edge of the strip and seaming to the body material with one row of stitches. FIG. 223 Seam Type LSdc-3 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) turning the edge of a ply of material and stitching in stitching type EFa-1, and (b) turning the edge of a second ply of material and lapping it on the turned and stitched edge of the first ply, and seaming with two rows of stitches. FIG. 224 Seam Type LSdd-2 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) lapping an interlining strip over a ply of material, turning the edge of the material around the strip and seaming with one row of stitches, and (b) folding the material in an “S” fold over the opposite edge of the strip and the edge of the body material, and seaming with one row of stitches. FIG. 225 Seam Type BSa Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by folding a binding
strip over the edge of the ply or plies of body material and
seaming the binding strip and body material with one or more rows
of stitches.
FIG. 226 Seam Type BSb Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by turning one edge
of a binding strip, folding it over the edge of the ply or plies of
body material, and seaming the binding strip and body material with
one or more rows of stitches.
FIG. 227 Seam Type BSc Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by turning both
edges of a binding strip, folding it over the edge of the ply or
plies of body material, and seaming the binding strip and body
material with one or more rows of stitches.
FIG. 228 Seam Type BSd-2 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by folding a binding
strip over the edges of the plies of body material, seaming the
binding strip and body material with one row of stitches, and the
plies of body material with a second row of stitches a substantial
distance from the edge.
FIG. 229 Seam Type BSe-2 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by turning both
edges of a binding strip and folding it over the edge of the plies
of body material, seaming the binding strip and body material with
one row of stitches and the two plies of body material with another
row of stitches a substantial distance from the edge.
FIG. 230 Seam Type BSf-2 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing a strip on a ply of body material and seaming with one row of stitches in seam type SSa-1, and (b) turning the strip over the row of stitches around the edge of the body material and seaming with a second row of stitches. FIG. 231 Seam Type BSg-2 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing a strip on a ply of body material and seaming with one row of stitches in seam type SSa-1, and (b) turning the strip over the row of stitches around the edge of the body material, folding the edge of the strip, and seaming with a second row of stitches. FIG. 232 Seam Type BSh-3 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing two plies of material and seaming as in seam type SSa-1, and (b) folding a binding strip over the edges of the plies of the body material and seaming with two rows of stitches. FIG. 233 Seam Type BSj-2 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing a strip on a ply of body material and seaming with one row of stitches in seam type SSa-1, and (b) turning the strip around the edge of the body material, folding the edge of the strip, and seaming with a second row of stitches through all plies. FIG. 234 Seam Type BSK-1 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by turning both
edges of a binding strip, folding it over the edges of a ply or
plies of body material and a folded welt strip, and seaming through
the binding strip, welt, and body material with one or more rows of
stitches.
FIG. 235 Seam Type Ba1-4 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing a strip on a ply of body material and seaming with one row of stitches in seam type SSa-1, and (b) turning the strip around the edge of the body material, folding the edge of the strip and seaming with three or more rows of stitches. FIG. 236 Seam Type BSm-3 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing a strip on a ply of body material and seaming with one row of stitches in seam type SSa-1, (b) turning the strip at the row of stitching, folding the body material inward a specified distance, and seaming with one row of stitches, and (c) turning the opposite edge of the strip under and seaming through the body material. FIG. 237 Seam Type BSn-4 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing a strip on a ply of body material and seaming with one row of stitches in seam type SSa-1, and (b) turning the strip around the edge of the body material with a tape or webbing inserted, folding the edge of the strip and seaming with three or more rows of stitches. FIG. 238 Seam Type BSo-2 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing a strip on a ply of body material a specified distance from the edge and seaming with one row of stitches in seam type SSbd-1, and (b) turning the strip over the row of stitches around the edge of the body material, folding the edge of strip, and seaming with a second row of stitches. FIG. 239 Seam Type BSp-2 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing a strip on a ply of body material and seaming with one row of stitches in seam type SSa-1, and (b) turning the strip over the row of stitches around the edge of the body material and seaming with a second row of stitches through the turned edge of the strip. FIG. 240 Seam Type BSq-2 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing two plies of material and seaming with one row of stitches in seam type SSa-1, and (b) turning both edges of a binding strip and folding it over the edges of the plies of body material, and seaming the binding strip and body material with one row of stitches. FIG. 241 Seam Type BSr Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing a strip on a ply of body material and seaming with one row of stitches in seam type SSa-1, and (b) turning the strip over the row of stitches around the edge of the body material and seaming with one or more rows of stitches. FIG. 242 Seam Type BSs-2 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by folding the edge
of the body material in an “S” fold, turning both edges of a
binding strip and folding it over the folded edge of the body
material, and seaming the binding strip and body material with two
or more rows of stitches.
FIG. 243 Seam Type FSa-1 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by seaming the edges
of two or more plies of material with a row of stitches extending
across and covering the edges of the material.
FIG. 244 Seam Type FSb-1 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by turning the edge
of one ply of material, abutting it against the raw edge of a
second ply of material and seaming with a row of stitches extending
across and covering the turned edge of the first ply and the raw
edge of the second ply.
FIG. 245 Seam Type FSc-1 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by turning and
abutting the turned edges of two plies of material and seaming with
a row of stitches extending across and covering the turned edges of
the material.
FIG. 246 Seam Type FSd-3 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) seaming the edges of two plies of material in seam type FSa-1; and (b) seaming a reinforcing tape over or under the seam with two rows of stitches a specified distance apart. FIG. 247 Seam Type FSe-1 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by abutting the
edges of two pieces of material over a reinforcing strip and
seaming with a row of stitches extending across and covering the
edges of the material.
FIG. 248 Seam Type FSf-1 Note 1: This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing two plies of material and seaming with an overedge stitch in seam type SSa-1, and (b) opening the two plies of material to form a flat seam with the edges of the material abutted. FIG. 249 Stitching Type Osa Note 1: This type of stitching shall be produced with one or
more straight rows of stitches.
FIG. 250 Stitching Type OSb-1 Note 1: This type of stitching shall be produced by inserting
a cord between the material and the locking thread of the stitch
thus forming a ridge or corded effect.
FIG. 251 Stitch Type Osc-1 Note 1: This type of stitching shall be produced by forming
the material in a ridge to give a corded effect without inserting a
cord.
FIG. 252 Stitch Type Osd Note 1: This type of stitching shall be produced by inserting
a cord or cords between two plies of material and stitching with a
row of stitches on each side of the cord or cords.
FIG. 253 Stitching Type Ose-1 Note 1: This type of stitching shall be produced by folding
the material in an “S” or reverse “S” fold as specified and
stitching the fold to the body material with one or more rows of
stitches.
FIG. 254 Stitching Type OSf-1 Note 1: This type of stitching shall be produced by folding
and stitching plies of the material near the fold with one or more
rows of stitches.
FIG. 255 Stitching Type OSg-3 Note 1: This type of stitching shall be produced by:
(a) folding a piece of material and stitching a specified distance from the fold with one row of stitches, (b) distributing an equal amount of the material in the fold to each side of the seam, turning each ply aside separately and stitching a specified distance from each folded edge with one row of stitches, and (c) opening both plies of material to finish as shown. FIG. 256 Stitching Type OSh-1 Note 1: This type of stitching shall be produced by folding
the material in an “S” or reverse “S” fold as specified, inserting
a cord in the fold, and stitching the fold to the body material
with one or more rows of stitches.
FIG. 257 Stitching Type EFa Note 1: This type of stitching shall be produced by turning
the edge of the material and stitching the turned portion to the
body of the material with one or more rows of stitches.
FIG. 258 Stitching Type EFb Note 1: This type of stitching shall be produced by turning
the edge of the material, folding it back over the body of the
material, and stitching the turned and folded portion to the body
of the material with one or more rows of stitches.
FIG. 259 Stitching Type Efc-1 Note 1: This type of stitching shall be produced by folding
the edge of the material in an “S” fold and stitching the turned
portion to the body with one row of stitches. In sewing, the
material shall be so guided that the needle only partially
penetrates the folded edge. When the material is laid flat, the
stitches shall not show on the outer face of the
material.
FIG. 260 Stitching Type EFd-1 Note 1: This type of stitching shall be produced by placing a
row of stitches over the edge of the material.
FIG. 261 Stitching Type EFe-1 Note 1: This type of stitching shall be produced by turning
the edge of the material and placing a row of stitches over the
edge of the material.
FIG. 262 Stitching Type EFf-1 Note 1: This type of stitching shall be produced by turning
and folding the edge of the material, inserting a strip between the
fold and the body of the material and stitching with one or more
rows of stitches.
FIG. 263 Stitching Type Efg-2 Note 1: This type of stitching shall be produced by turning
and folding the edge of the material, inserting a strip between the
fold and the body of the material, and stitching with two rows of
stitches. The strip shall be secured by one or more rows of
stitches as specified.
FIG. 264 Stitching Type Efh-1 Note 1: This type of stitching shall be produced by turning
the edges of a strip of material, bringing the edges together, and
stitching the butted edges with a row of stitches extending across
and covering the edges of the material.
FIG. 265 Stitching Type EFj Note 1: This type of stitching shall be produced by folding a
strip of material, overlapping the edges, turning the edge of the
under ply, and stitching through all the plies with one row of
stitches (stitching type EFj-1). One row of stitches shall be
placed at each folded edge to form stitching type EFj-3.
FIG. 266 Stitching Type EFK Note 1: This type of stitching shall be formed by folding the
material in an“ S” fold, turning the free edge back into the top of
the “S” and stitching with one or more rows of stitches through
each side of the fold.
FIG. 267 Stitching Type Efl-1 Note 1: This type of stitching shall be produced by turning
the edge of the material and stitching it to the body material with
one row of stitches. The stitches shall overedge the turned edge
and the needle shall only partially penetrate the body material so
that the stitches do not show on the outer face of the
material.
FIG. 268 Stitching Type Efm-1 Note 1: This type of stitching shall be produced by turning
the edge of the material, folding it back over the body material,
and joining the turned and folded portion to the body material with
one row of stitches. The needle shall only partially penetrate the
body material so that the stitches do not show on the out face of
the material.
FIG. 269 Stitching Type Efn Note 1: This type of stitching shall be produced by turning
the edges of two strips of material and joining the edges so turned
by two or four rows of stitches.
FIG. 270 Stitching Type Efp Note 1: This type of stitching shall be produced by turning a
strip of material, folding the edges inwardly and joining with one
or two rows of stitches.
FIG. 271 Stitching Type Efq-2 Note 1: This type of stitching shall be produced by turning
and folding the edge of the material around a strip and stitching
with two or four rows of stitches. The strip shall be secured by
all the rows of stitches.
FIG. 272 Stitching Type EFr-2 Note 1: This type of stitching shall be produced by turning
and folding the edge of the material around a strip and stitching
the material with two rows of stitches. The strip shall not be
caught in either of the rows of stitches.
FIG. 273 Stitching Type EFs-2 Note 1: This type of stitching shall be produced by turning
both edges of a strip of material upward and then downward,
abutting the folded edges, and stitching with two rows of
stitches.
FIG. 274 Stitching Type Eft Note 1: This type of stitching shall be produced by turning
the edge of the material, folding it back over the body material
and stitching with two or more rows of stitches.
FIG. 275 Stitching Type Efu-1 Note 1: This type of stitching shall be formed by folding a
piece of material with the face inside and stitching along the edge
with one row of stitches. After stitching, the cylinder thus made
is turned inside out to place the face of the material on the
outside.
FIG. 276 Stitching Type EFv Note 1: This type of stitching shall be formed by folding the
material, inserting an interlining strip, and stitching with two or
four rows of stitches.
FIG. 277 Stitching Type EFw-1 Note 1: This type of stitching shall be produced by turning
the edge back over the body material and in under that fold, and
stitching the turned and folded portion to the body of the material
with one or more rows of stitches.
FIG. 278 Stitching Type EFx-1 Note 1: This type of stitching shall be produced by turning
the edge back over the body material and in under that fold a
specified distance, and stitching turned and folded portion to the
body of the material with one or more rows of stitches.
FIG. 279 Stitching Type EFy Note 1: This type of stitching shall be produced by folding a
strip of material, overlapping the edges, and stitching through all
plies with one row of stitches to form stitching type EFy-1. One
row of stitches shall be placed at each folded edge to form
stitching type EFy-3.
FIG. 280 Stitching Type Efz Note 1: This type of stitching shall be produced by turning a
strip of material, folding one edge inwardly and joining with one
or two rows of stitches.
FIG. 281 Stitching Type Efaa Note 1: This type of stitching shall be produced by folding a
strip of material to form three plies and joining with one or two
rows of stitches.
FIG. 282 Stitching Type EFab Note 1: This type of stitching shall be produced by turning
the edge of the material, folding it back over the body of the
material, and placing one or more rows of stitches over the edge of
the material.
FIG. 283 Stitching Type EFac-2 Note 1: This type of stitching shall be produced by turning
both edges of a strip of material around a reinforcing strip,
turning the edges inward, abutting the folded edges and stitching
with two rows of stitches.
FIG. 284 Stitching Type EFad-2 Note 1: This type of stitching shall be produced by turning a
strip of material, inserting a reinforcing strip, folding the edges
of the material inwardly with one edge folded around the strip, and
stitching with two or more rows of stitches. The strip shall be
secured by all the rows of stitches.
FIG. 285 Stitching Type EFae-1 Note 1: This type of stitching shall be produced by turning
both edges of a strip of material upward and then downward,
abutting the folded edges, and stitching with a row of stitches
extending across and covering the abutted edges of the material.
The needle shall penetrate only partially the under ply so that the
stitches do not show on the outer surface of the
material.
FIG. 286 Stitching Type EFaf-2 Note 1: This type of stitching shall be produced by:
(a) placing a row of stitches over the edge of the material, and (b) turning the overedged edge and placing one or more rows of stitches over the turned edge of the material. FIG. 287 Stitching Type EFag-2 Note 1: This type of stitching shall be produced by:
(a) placing a row of stitches over the edge of the material, and (b) turning and folding the overedged edge and placing one or more rows of stitches over the turned edge of the material. FIG. 288 Stitching Type EFah-1 Note 1: This type of stitching shall be produced by folding
the edge of the material in an “S” fold with the raw edge turned
under to form a finished edge, and stitching through the two folds
with one row of stitches.
1.3.3 Annex A1—Seam Assembly Recommendations. 1.4 This standard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appropriate safety, health, and environmental practices and determine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use. 1.5 This international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization established in the Decision on Principles for the Development of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee. |
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